To ensure that you get the right replacement filters for your system, it's important to start by checking the part number in your user manual. If you can't find the part number there, you can try typing your system model number into our search engine. Once you've found your system, you can scroll down to the Water Filters category to locate the correct replacement filters. If you're unsure which system or filters you have, please refrain from calling our customer support phone line, as they may not be able to assist you over the phone. Instead, we recommend uploading a picture of your system "click Here" so that we can identify your pre and post-filters. However, please note that we may still need you to provide the membrane size by pulling it out and sending us the label number. This will help us ensure that you receive the correct replacement filters for your system.

For 5 stage full replacement filters: 104550 or you can just buy the 3 pre-filters and the last stage polishing filter 104504 and membrane 104092 ( this two-pack combination is part number is 104550.

Other options for 75, 100 GPD system, buy 3 pre-filters and last stage polishing filter 104504 and any of the following membranes

75 GPD 104093 , 100 GPD 104094 , 150 GPD 104098 , 200 GPD 104097 and for the rest size membranes, please click here

For 50 GPD systems, select 104550 plus the following filer(s): But For 75 to 200 GPD systems; go back to Q.2 and purchase your pre-filters and membrane separately.

For 6-Stage alkaline RO system part #101073 or part # 101074, select 104550 Plus add filter 104051

For 6-Stage mineral RO system part #101076, select 104550 Plus add filter 104042

For a 6-Stage infrared RO system, select 104550 Plus add filter 104044

For a 6-Stage UV RO system with Stainless Steel Housing, select 104550 Plus add [ 105027 UV bulb, for older models, search 105037 or 105024 ] (always check your UV bulb model in your system before purchasing)

For 7-Stage Mineral with UV Stainless Steel Housing Light, select 104550 Plus add filter 104042 Plus [ 105027 UV bulb, for older models, search 105037 or 105024 ] (always check your UV bulb model in your system before purchasing)

For 8-Stage Alkaline Mineral Infrared system part #101080, select 104550 Plus add 3-1 Alkaline filter 104180 or 104052

For 9-Stage Alkaline Mineral Infrared DI, select 104550 Plus add filter 104180 or 104052 Plus 104050

For 9-Stage Alkaline Mineral Infrared with UV Stainless Steel Housing Light System Part # 101086, Or 101038 select 104550 Plus add filter 104180 or 104052 Plus [ 105027 UV bulb, for older models, search 105037 or 105024 ] (always check your UV bulb model in your system before purchasing)

For a 10-Stage Alkaline System with 5-1 filter system part #101190, the 50 GPD system pre and post-filters 104550 Plus add 5-1 Alkaline filter 104185

For 10-Stage Alkaline Mineral Infrared DI with Stainless Steel UV Housing Light System Part # 101089, select 104550 Plus add filter 104180 or 104052 Plus 104050 Plus [ 105027 UV bulb, for older models, search 105037 or 105024 ] (always check your UV bulb model in your system before purchasing)

For 10-Stage Alkaline Mineral Infrared DI with PVC Casing UV Light System Part # 101088, select 104550 Plus add filter 104180 or 104052 Plus 104050 Plus [ 105027 UV bulb, for older models search 105037 or 105024 ] (always check your UV bulb model in your system before purchasing)

For 11-Stage Alkaline 5-1 plus DI System, select 104550 Plus add filter 104185 Plus 104050.

For 11-Stage Alkaline 5-1 with Stainless Steel Housing Light System, select 104550 Plus add filter 104185 Plus [ 105027 UV bulb, for older models, search 105037 ] (always check your UV bulb model in your system before purchasing)

For 12-Stage Alkaline 5-1 DI with Stainless Steel Housing Light System, select 104550 Plus add filter 104185 Plus 104050 Plus [ 105027 UV bulb, for older models, search 105037 (always check your UV bulb model in your system before purchasing)

For a 4-Stage Portable system, select filter 104040 plus 2 filters 104041 Plus select a membrane 104092 for 50 GPD or 75 GPD 104093 or 100 GPD 104094 For other sizes please click here.

For 5-Stage DI Portable system, select one filter 104040 plus 2 filters 104041 plus one filter 104045 (Or for refillable & clear ones 104050 or 104050A ) plus select a membrane 104092 for 50 GPD. or 104093 for 75 GPD Systems

For the 5-Stage Alkaline Portable system, select one filter 104040 plus 2 filters 104041 plus one filter 104051 plus select a membrane 104092 for 50 GPD.

For the 7-Stage Alkaline Portable system, select one filter 104040 plus 2 filters 104041 plus one filter 104180 or 104052 plus select a membrane 104092 for 50 GPD.

Please note that we do have two types of quick-connect filter replacement, old type, and new type. Please compare your system and filters carefully before buying.

1st Stage 5 micron Sediment 104061,

2nd Stage GAC Carbon filter 104062,

3rd Stage either CTO Carbon filter 104063 Or 1 Micron Sediment Filter 104060 (For high chlorine in the water choose CTO. For well water with high sediment, choose 1 Micron).

4th Stage membrane 104092 ( if your membrane is 50 GPD, otherwise go back to Q.2 and select your right membrane size)

5th Stage polishing filter 104041

And For 8-Stage Alkaline Mineral Infrared, add all the 5 above plus add either filter 104180 or 104052 / some new systems supplied with connecting filter part number 104184

5 stage full replacement filters 104505 and membrane 104092

4 stage - The first three pre-filters 104515 + 1 Membrane if 50GPD 104092 , but if its 75 GPD 104093, and for 100 GPD 104094

5 stage - The first three pre-filters 104515 + 1 Membrane ( any of the above 50, 75, or 100 GPD) + Deionization filter 104045 or for the refillable type you can select 104050 or 104050A or just buy DI media Bag for Aquarium 104138-2 or for drinking 104135-2 to refill your refillable filters

6 stage - same 5th stage filter just either add another Deionization filter ( repeat stage 5 ) 104045, 104050, 104050A or refill media Aquarium 104138-2 or for drinking 104135-2 or add Carbon filter for some other system if carbon is required 104041 like the Dual systems ( Drinking + Aquarium)

Please click here Reverse Osmosis Systems

Please Click Here

Please Click Here

We want to remind you that our warranty does not cover the power adapter if it fails after 15 days from the purchase date. However, our power adapters are heavy-duty and should not fail easily unless they are subjected to constant on-and-off switching due to low incoming pressure, typically 5 PSI or less, which often occurs when the first sediment filters become clogged with dirt. 

Before checking your power adapter, it's important to ensure that the power outlet and booster flat plug power strips are properly connected, as this is a common issue that our customers face. To check your booster pump, start by disconnecting the low-pressure wires and connecting them together. If the booster pump does not start running, disconnect the high-pressure switch wires as well and check again. If the booster pump still does not work, please contact our customer support team for further assistance. 

It's important to note that city water with high pressure of 80 PSI or higher can damage your system membrane and/or the auto shut-off valve (ASV). However, our booster pump will convert low city or well water pressure, typically 30, 40, or 50 PSI, to high pressure between 70 to 110 PSI, based on the size of your membrane GPD, flow restrictor, and incoming water pressure. This high pressure won't damage your membrane or ASV because the amount of water passing after the booster is less than 1 liter/minute at 70 to 110 PSI for a 50 GPD membrane. Therefore, there is no need to adjust the booster output pressure. Please note that our booster pump does not include a pressure limit valve, and adding one may cause confusion in your booster pump or system operation.

The water out of my Reverse Osmosis system looks milky or cloudy, what is the reason behind this issue?

This is generally caused by trapped air within the RO system. However, it will not affect the quality of your water. The cloudiness should disappear within a minute after water sits in a glass. This is a normal occurrence with a newly installed RO System or after a filter change. You can release the air from your RO system by draining the tank 1 to 2 more times or using RO to make humming noise air release instructions in your system manual (see below).

Instructions to Release Air Trapped in Check Valve:

If your RO system makes a whining or humming noise, most likely it’s due to air that got trapped in the “Check Valve” during installation. So we need to get rid of the air in the Check Valve.

The Check valve is on the left side of the Membrane Housing. It is an internal valve encased in the L-shaped plastic fitting. It connects to the Clear line that puts out pure water from the Membrane housing.

To relieve the air bubbles, do as follows: (See Pictures Below)

Step 1: Close the Tank’s valve.

Step 2: Tilt the RO system to the right. Put something under the 3rd filter housing to keep RO tilted. This will help dislodge the air bubbles from the Check Valve.

Step 3: Turn on the RO spigot. Let pure water flow thru the spigot for about 1 minute. This forces the air to flow directly out to the spigot, bypassing the tank.

Step 4: Turn off the spigot. Wait for about 10 seconds. Repeat step 3 again. Perform this step around 3- 4 times.

These instructions for repairing quick connect fitting such for John Guest fitting

Turn off the incoming feedwater inlet line and open a faucet downstream of the unit to relieve the system's internal pressure and also close the valve on top of the storage tank.

Remove the tube from the fitting by pressing inward on the collet and simultaneously pulling the tube out of the fitting.

Remove the collet from the fitting. Just grasp it with your fingernails and pull it out.

Use a thin-bladed screwdriver, a toothpick, tweezers, or some other thin tool to pull the o-ring out of the fitting. Be careful not to damage the fitting, but don’t worry about the o-ring. You're going to throw it away.

Put the new o-ring into the fitting and push it into position with the end of the tube itself. (Don't use a sharp tool that could damage the new o-ring.) The o-ring should be pushed in so that it stands against the back wall of the fitting.

When the o-ring is in place, reinstall the collet by simply pushing it back into the fitting. If the o-ring is slightly out of position, inserting the collet should fix it. You normally won't need to replace the collet, but it doesn't hurt.

Please click on this link to show you all Ontario licensed laboratories

usually, the sound presents for many reasons. High pressure, low pressure, and auto shut failer after 5 years.

* Hi, pressure more than 75 psi, add pressure reducer. Part #105229

*Low pressure less than 50 PSI check city water incoming pressure to the system membrane housing inlet. if it's less than 50 PSI check the pre-filters as they might be clogged with dirt. The pressure is well and more than 50 PSI check the membrane if it's more than 2 years replace it. if all above is good and city water is less than 50 PSI then you have to add a booster pump to increase the pressure by more than 60 PSI

* check the flow restrictor if partially blocked with the dirt during the use by Appling water pressure from the opposite side.

if all above is good then change the auto shut-off valve. Search item # 105111

When water stops running out from the faucet; check the tank weight, if it's more than 10 Lbs, that means that the tank air pressure is down. Use a bicycle manual pump and start adding air, and the entire process takes about 10 to 15 minutes to fill the tank at its optimal PSI (6 - 7 PSI ) while the tank water bladder is completely empty. Make sure to not add air ( in all tanks at once) because that will damage the air bladder. When pumping air to the tank, only make 2 pumps at a time and wait until the tank releases water out from the topwater threaded valve, once the water stops make proceed to make another 2 pumps and repeat the cycle until all the water comes out of the tank and then check what's the air pressure, it has to be between 6 to 7 PSI max with no more water coming out.

We ( Max Water ) are not responsible for any damage that occurred by the user during the above process.

It could be any of the following:

Check your tank pressure, please follow Q 15 above.

Check your pre-filters quality, if the sediment filter is clogged with dirt, the entire system pressure will drop and the feeding pressure to the membrane housing will be less than the minimum requirement and all the feeding water will divert to the waste side, the tank never fills and your waste line will keep running.

The last time your membrane was installed/replaced: If your membrane is older than 2 years or if your incoming water PPM is higher than 400 PPM, there is a high possibility that your membrane is clogged and you either try to flush it or change it. Flush the membrane by bypassing the flow restrictor, letting the water-free flow for 5 to 10 minutes. If your membrane is older than 2 years, please replace it.

Check your system flow restrictor and the Auto shut-off valve(ASV), usually, these two valves are good for 3 to 7 years, but sometimes the ASV becomes faulty if your incoming water is higher than 80 PSI, or if the incoming water is less than 50 PSI. The system cannot produce water if the pressure drops below 45 PSI (usually this happens when you buy a system; it works fine for 2 months, then the problem starts) after the sediment filter starts clogging with dirt and the pressure drop to 45 PSI, the system will not produce water and the production will direct the waste.

There are many reasons that caused the filter housings to be cracked: the most common reasons are freezing or hitting the housing on the floor during filters changes or during assembly set up by homeowners and causing the housing a fine "hair cut" crack that will be not visible to their eyes vision and might develop after days/weeks months which depend on the cut size, weather and water pressure and will end up to major crack any time afterward.

• The environment the system was set up in is too cold causing the water circulating through the system to freeze and crack the housing.
• The pressure in the system is too much and over 90 PSI, causing cracks. This is due to customer error as Max Water provides in the system description the threshold of pressure the system can withstand.
• The Housings were twisted open/closed without using a housing wrench, or other forms of user mishandling.

• First, you have to remove your DI Filter.
• Make sure the system should include a check valve part number 105116 and auto shut off valve part number 105111
• add 4.4 Gallon Standard Size Reverse Osmosis Storage PAE Tank RO-132: Part Number: 105006 plus Tank Ball Valve part number 105137
• add 10" x 2" T33 GAC Inline Coconut Shell Carbon Filter, Part Number: 104041 ( two fittings should be available in your system part number 105407 and part number 105429) plus you should have a faucet and 1/4 inch tube

• 1st Stage: 5 Micron Polypropylene Sediment Filter 104002
• 2nd Stage: Granular Activated Carbon (GAC) Filter 104004
• 3rd Stage: 5 Micron Carbon Block (CTO) Filter 104005
• 4th Stage: RO Membrane
• 5th Stage: Inline T33 GAC Coconut Shell Carbon Filter 104041

We ( Max Water ) are not responsible for any damage that occurred by the user during the above process.

Membrane fouling can significantly impair the effectiveness of filtration processes by causing particle build-up in the membrane's pores or surface. It's a major hurdle that restricts the widespread application of membrane technology, leading to severe flux decline and decreased water quality. Different types of foulants, including colloidal, biological, organic, and scaling, contribute to membrane fouling, which can be reversible or irreversible based on particle attachment strength. Several factors can influence membrane fouling, such as hydrodynamics, operating conditions, membrane and material properties. Indicators of membrane fouling include improper waste rejection or flux, transmembrane pressure, permeability, and resistance. To combat membrane fouling, physical, biological, or chemical cleaning methods can be employed, and membranes suitable for a particular operation can be selected. Additionally, operational conditions during membrane filtration play a crucial role, with crossflow filtration being preferred over dead-end filtration to minimize fouling. In certain applications, air scour is employed to create turbulence at the membrane surface.

The issue with the membrane in some cases like is not due to a bad or defective membrane, as some buyers suggest. The problem can arise from a few different reasons. In some cases, the membrane can get clogged within a few days due to incorrect setup or the wrong membrane model being used for the water chemistry. Other times, even with the correct membrane, it can still get clogged within 4 to 6 months. The reasons for this could be as follows:

• 1) The feed water could be from well water, and the hardness may be too high, which can cause fouling of membrane elements and reduce salt rejection.
• 2) Iron may be present in the water, and this can be adsorbed using strong acid cation resin if the iron ion content is less than 0.05PPM. If the content is 0.05-2 PPM, an iron-manganese sand filter can be used for filtration, and if no sediment filter is included, it is better to buy a 3-stage iron-out system to prolong the iron filter life. The manganese sand filter can oxidize Fe2+ and filter at the same time, effectively preventing iron pollution from reverse osmosis. Iron fouling is generally challenging to clean, but it can be done using 1% Na2S2O4 at a temperature below 30°C and a PH range of 4-6.
• 3) There may be a problem with the brine seal.
• 4) Oxidizing substances in the feed water can cause the membrane element to be oxidized.
• 5) The system recovery may be too high.
• 6) The proper rejection ratio may not have been applied.
• 7) To ensure optimal performance in maple syrup production, it is crucial to flush the membrane with the appropriate RO water after each use. Specifically, the recommended membrane model is XLP 4040 Part # 104303. It is important to note that using alternative models may not yield the desired results. It is highly recommended to follow the correct setup procedures to avoid any issues with sap production. Further information on this topic can be found in Q #20.




If there are system design problems, the membrane elements will need to be replaced every six months. We recommend using the ULP-4040MR-2 for high well water PPMs as salt rejection will be better. However, if there is a system design problem, the membrane life may not be significantly improved.




For fouling membranes, we recommend using part # 104190 liquid antiscalant and dispersant, which is formulated to inhibit scale and disperse colloidal particles in cellulose acetate and polyamide reverse osmosis. For inorganic scaling cleaning, HCL can be used, and for organic fouling cleaning, NaOH is recommended, especially for maple syrup extraction.

As a maple syrup producer, you can improve the efficiency and quality of your production process by using a 4040 commercial reverse osmosis (RO) system with an XLP membrane. RO is a process that removes impurities from water by forcing it through a semi-permeable membrane under high pressure. In maple syrup production, RO is used to remove a portion of the water from the sap before it's boiled down into syrup. This reduces the amount of time and fuel needed to boil the sap, which can save time and money. To use a 4040 RO system for maple syrup production, you need to follow these steps:

1) Choose the right system: Select a 4040 RO system that can filter maple syrup and equip it with an XLP membrane designed for maple syrup production.

2) Set up the system: Install the system according to the manufacturer's instructions, and make sure it's connected to a source of clean, potable water. Use food-grade tubing and fittings to ensure the purity of your maple syrup. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for guidance on adjusting or replacing pre-filters to accommodate the higher sugar content of maple syrup.

3) Prepare the sap: Filter the sap to remove any large particles or debris before running it through the RO system. This will help protect the RO membrane and ensure the system runs smoothly.

4)Run the sap through the RO system: Turn on the system and adjust the pressure and flow rate as needed to achieve the desired level of water removal. It's important to use an XLP membrane specifically designed for maple syrup production. The "waste" from the RO system is where the maple syrup comes out, so collect it in a clean, food-grade container.

5) Calculate your waste ratio: To optimize your yield of maple syrup, calculate your waste ratio, which is the ratio of water removed from the sap to the amount of concentrate collected in the waste stream. Divide the amount of water that's removed by the amount of concentrate that's collected to calculate your waste ratio.

Using a 4040 commercial RO system with an XLP membrane and calculating your waste ratio can significantly reduce the time and energy needed to produce maple syrup while still achieving a high-quality product. However, note that reverse osmosis should be used as a tool to enhance the quality of your syrup, not as a substitute for good sap quality or proper boiling practices. Maple syrup grades are determined by the color and flavor of the syrup. There are four grades of maple syrup, each with its unique characteristics: Grade A Light Amber, Grade A Medium Amber, Grade A Dark Amber, and Grade B. The "grade" only determines the taste, color, and general purpose of the maple syrup and not the quality.

The “ Rule of 86”:

In maple syrup production, the "Rule of 86" is used to estimate how much sap is needed to make one gallon of maple syrup, based on the percentage of sugar in the sap. This simple formula is an essential guide to ensure the quality and consistency of the syrup. The equation is gallons of sap divided by sugar content ( not by percentage). Here is an example for reference, let's just assume you somehow manage to get a hold of sap that has 4.3% sugar content; 86 ÷ 4.3= 20, therefore you only need 20 gallons of sap to produce 1 gallon of maple syrup. Please click and use the table below for reference.



other detailed guide references Maple Syrup Manual

Plastic shrinkage cracking almost always occurs because the surface dries too quickly before it has time to strengthen. Rapid evaporation of water from the surface of the concrete can allow water particles from its base to displace at the surface and cause cracks. This condition is similar to the cracking that occurs in clay soil when it dries, specifically in environments where there is very little moisture. Other environmental factors that can cause plastic shrinkage cracking are high temperatures and excessively windy conditions.

For the following reasons the system life will be short:

• Direct sunlight or because of Plastic Shrinkage cracking.
• Very low pressure or freezing point causes system damage and cracks to your system housings.
• Tank's average service life is 3 to 7 years but for hygienic purposes, it should be changed a maximum of every 5 years.
• System housing o rings, fitting o rings, and rest parts get cracked too, and might cause leaking
• The auto shut-off valve and check valve should be changed too to enhance the system's performance.

Because of the above points, changing the complete system will cost you cheaper than changing all the above parts as well as the filters.

For a newly installed system, you have to check the following

• Make sure that you insert/load the membrane inside the membrane housing
• Make sure that you installed the system water inlet from the cold line, hot water damage the filters, membrane, and rest parts.
• Make sure that you keep the system working for 2 hours to flush all the filters ( read the steps in the user manual)
• Normally if you did all the above correctly, the RO system required at least 3 to 7 days to get the ideal 95% to 98% rejection.

For the rest used systems; you have to check the following

• How old are your system filters and the membrane? if the membrane is older than 2 years you much to change it. pre-filters should be changed every 6 months
• For a system of more than 3 years, if the PPM rejection failed, you have to change the Auto shut-off valve, check valve, and the flow restrictor.
• Make sure that you keep the system working for 2 hours to flush all the pre-filters and the membrane as well.
• Normally if you did all the above correctly, the RO system required at least 3 to 7 days to get the ideal 95% to 98% rejection.

Ø 2 stage ( Sediment 5 Micron + CTO Carbon Block) item # 104002 and 104005

Ø 2 stage ( Sediment 5 Micron + GAC Carbon Block) item # 104002 and 104004

Ø 3 stage ( Sediment 5 Micron + GAC Carbon + CTO Carbon Block) item # 104516

Ø 3 stage ( Pleated 5 Micron + Sediment 5 Micron +GAC Carbon) item # 104513

Ø 3 stage ( Sediment 5 Micron + Iron Manganese + CTO Carbon Block) item # 104002 plus 104321 and 104005

Ø 3 stage ( Sediment 5 Micron + Cation Resin + GAC Carbon) item # 104002 plus 104022 and 104004

You can find other filter combinations on the following link Water Filters: 10" X 4.5" Filters

Ø 2 stage ( Sediment 5 Micron + CTO Carbon Block) item # 104102 and 104104

Ø 2 stage ( Sediment 5 Micron + GAC Carbon Block) item # 104102 and 104103

Ø 3 stage ( Pleated 5 Micron + Sediment 5 Micron +GAC Carbon) item #104595

You can find other filter combinations on the following link Water Filters: 10" X 2.5" Filters

Ø 3 stage ( Sediment 5 Micron 104081 + GAC Carbon 104082 + CTO Carbon Block 104083)

You can find other filter combinations on the following link Water Filters: 20" X 2.5" Filters

Ø 2 stage ( Sediment 5 Micron + CTO Carbon Block) item # 104586

Ø 2 stage ( Sediment 5 Micron + GAC Carbon Block) item # 104580

Ø 3 stage ( Sediment 5 Micron + GAC Carbon + CTO Carbon Block) item # 104592

Ø 3 stage ( Pleated 5 Micron + Sediment 5 Micron +GAC Carbon) item # 104590

Ø 3 stage ( Sediment 5 Micron + Iron Manganese + CTO Carbon Block) item # 104112 Plus 104121 and 104114

You can find other filter combinations on the following link Water Filters: 20" X 4.5" Filters

First, make sure that you install the filters in the correct flow direction (ie. if your system flow is Right to Left, make sure to install the Sediment filter first, GAC or Iron Manganese second, and CTO last). Installing the filter in the opposite direction will force the water to flow from the center of the Sediment filter to the outside, causing a pressure drop and will clog your filter.

Second, make sure you install the GAC and Iron filter from the correct end (Center open hole on top). If you install these filters upside down, your filter will restrict flow to passing and might damage the filter body.

Third, when you install any GAC, UDF, or T33-type filters in the first stage, the filter inlet woven surface flow will be restricted and this woven/mesh can get clogged within a couple of hours, or days, and cause a huge pressure drop.

The ideal incoming pressure is 60 PSI, any lower than 40 PSI will not let the filters perform at their optimal level, but also higher pressure of 90 PSI and up might damage the filter (especially the GAC, and UDS filters). For a 20"x4.5" Iron filter you must have at least 60 PSI to operate the filter without having a pressure drop at your home pipes. The iron filter required high pressure.

We ( Max Water ) are not responsible for any failure or damage that occurred to any type of replacement filters, for more detail please Click Here

Installing the system immediately with all 3 Filters loaded in will cause the CTO / 3rd Stage filter to be covered with iron fines, so when handling Iron Manganese systems, pre-preparation for the system is very important. (Note that only our 10"x2.5" Iron Manganese Filter can function as part of a 1-stage system)

For the first time use of the filters, load the sediment filter into the 1st stage housing (right), and load the iron-manganese filter in the 2nd stage housing (middle). Leave the CTO Filter out and leave the 3rd stage housing (left) empty. Connect the system to your house and open the mainline, opening the nearest faucet to flush out the residue of red finery, and leave it running for as long as the red color in the water remains. Once the water coming out of the faucet is clear without a reddish color, your System is ready for the CTO Filter to be installed into the 3rd Stage Filter Housing. Stop the mainline, install the CTO Filter, and open the mainline again.

We ( Max Water ) are not responsible for any failure of damage that occurred to any type of replacement filters, for more detail please Click Here

This may be a compatibility issue between your Filter(s) and the Filter Housing Head(s) of your system, which can be for many reasons. The filter housing head is meant to sit on the filter, and there is a hole in the center of the Filter Housing Head that allows water exiting the filter to pass through.

The standard Filter Housing Head has a Hole with a SHORT stem, but other manufacturers can also supply Filter Housing Heads that have a Hole with a LONG stem.

Some Filters have an opening at the top that keeps the center and sides of the hole completely exposed. Other Filters will have the center of its hole covered, with small openings on the sides of the hole.

• One reason for the pressure drop is if by chance you have a Filter Housing Head with a LONG hole stem, and combine that with a Filter that has a covered center hole, the LONG stem's Hole will be completely covered by the Filter's hole covering. This is the main source of pressure drop and flow restriction. There is no opening for the water to flow. One Possible Solution (perform at your own discretion) is drilling 1-2 small holes into the sides of the LONG stem hole, which permits the water coming from the sides of the Filter's hole to flow through the sides of the Head's LONG stem, allowing for proper water flow and barely any pressure drop.
• A second reason could be if the system's filters were placed in the wrong order, which can cause serious problems. A Sediment Filter will always be the first stage in any system because it can catch the larger sediment particles while it lets the 2nd stage filter and onwards only deal with the microscopic particles. If for instance, a GAC or Iron Filter was placed as the first stage in a system, the larger particles in the unfiltered water cannot be dealt with by these filters' extremely thin sediment membrane, causing the filter to quickly become clogged, and the pressure to drop rapidly. The sediment filter must always come first in multi-stage systems to protect your other filters and the rest of your system from getting clogged and potentially damaged.

We ( Max Water ) are not responsible for any failure of damage that occurred to any type of replacement filters, for more detail please Click Here

Point-of-Use (POU)

POU systems filter your incoming water right where you use it. That could be an individual tap, faucet, or shower. POU systems encompass filters that connect to a water line under the sink, filters that attach to your faucet, and even filtration pitchers you fill with water.

Point-of-Entry (POE)

POE water filtration systems are also known as “whole home” systems because they filter all the water that comes into your home or business. These systems attach to the mainline where water enters your home and filter all of it before it reaches any sinks or showers.

Please click here Teflon Wrapping Directions

In most cases with Iron Content in the water, the water itself will usually contain different types of contaminants/sediments/dirt, etc. When your water filter stops passing water, it's incorrect to believe that only Iron content is the cause. The inlet woven filter on the Iron Manganese Filter will be clogged with dirt or sediment.

The Iron Manganese Filter is ultimately specialized in filtering out Iron Manganese content but is minimally equipped to deal with tiny amounts of Sediment and Dirt. Since Iron Water will often have large amounts of dirt and sediment, a Sediment Pre-Filter is REQUIRED if the Iron Filter following it, or any filter following the Sediment Filter for that matter, are to properly work as intended without clogging up too early.